Paint or Powder Coat

I have been asked on several occasions which is the best or what should one use. It is a matter of choice and also depends whether you want to do all the work or whether you want to send off some bits and carry on with the restoration while they are away. Do you want the original frame finish or not for originality? The cost is about the same, although some powder coaters charge by the items and not the whole frame.

What is Powder Coating?

Powder is paint applied by a different method. Powder coating was introduced to the United States in the late 60’s. It started to really take off in the mid 70’s and has steadily gained in popularity for a number of reasons. Powder coating is comparatively environmentally friendly as it contain no solvents and thus has very low air emissions when curing. There is also very little waste with powder, unlike paint which suffers from over-spray, and the surplus can be collected and reused. Powder is sprayed (in some cases dipped) on to parts which are electro-statically charged. It is then baked in an oven, where it melts, flows and cures. This is a specialist job.  Powder coating is chip resistant, but is hard to repair if it does get damaged.

Painting

I prefer painting as it leaves the parts in my possession and I enjoy the finished result with satisfaction. I usually spray paint my bits with Gloss Enamel paint from Halfords. First clean the parts to bear metal and then spray with a base coat. Now apply two topcoats of paint and finish the job off with a coat of clear lacquer. (For the frame parts you do not need the lacquer coat) You will often feel disappointed at this point as the lacquer has a matt finish, but give it a few days to harden and then T-Cut to a smooth polished surface, and you will be pleased with the result. Make sure you buy all the items together as different types of paint and lacquer can react with each other resulting in an orange peel effect. Application of transfers can be done after this and you can apply a lacquer over them to protect them from scratching, but again, give the transfers a few days before applying the coat of lacquer. Scratches can be touched up at a later date making the on going maintenance easier than with powder coating. Brush painting is another option, which can result in a good finish, but you need to buy good brushes. This has the advantage of putting the paint where you want it (no over-spray) but be careful to avoid runs.

Powder Coating

Label and photograph all the parts you require doing and make a list, as sometimes parts can go missing. They will sand blast the parts down to bear metal and then electrically charge the items and spray with a powder. This then is put in an oven and baked into a smooth hard finish. You need to make sure that if you are doing the frame, the serial number must remain legible, a friends bike failed it's MOT because the tester could not read the serial number and he had to file off the powder coat. There is no point in stripping the paint prior to taking the parts for powder coating as they will insist on cleaning them down, so you will not save any money. Make sure that any parts that do not need painting are masked, the paint will set in screw threads, with a risk of chipping when you try to fit your parts.

Professional Tips on Painting

I just thought you might find these couple of tips handy. I am a ex Rolls Royce body and paint worker of over 15 years.

1) Orange peel effect is generally caused by spraying too close to the job. You should allow 3 to 4 inches clearance to avoid orange peel. Normally spray paints from cans are much thinner than from a professional unit (compressor driven paint gun) so you do get orange peel (especially from lacquer). Just put on heaps of layers and between every coat give it a little rub down with 1200+ wet n dry paper. Put a bit of washing up liquid in the water before you use it to stop the sand paper clogging, then pulling your fresh paint off and on large surfaces use a block of some description, rubber are probably best.

2) If I am doing a small repair or bike parts and using cans I'd highly recommend chatting to your local paint supplier (motor industry) such as the company I use in New Malden, Surrey called L.E Wents Ltd. They can supply you with a spray can mixed to your request. They provide a much thicker cover than Halfords type sprays (nearly the same as gravity fed professional gun) , plus you get a lot more paint for your money, they cost approx £12 GBP each but go a real long way.

3) Last tip but a goodie is work with warm materials. If you are spraying a frame/tank/whatever stick a 2 bar electric fire near the work for about 1/2 hour. Also put some hot water (not boiling, out of a tap is fine) in to a big pan and put your spray can in, this will do 2 things that'll make your job easier, it thickens the paint, you'd think it would thin it but nope, and also you tend to suffer from less runs/orange peel/reactions. Especially handy if the weather is cold or damp, damp conditions will give your work a milky effect, which will always need cutting back to keep a nice shine/colour.

Hope you find this helpful.
Tony Goodman